YOU NEED: soft wool
of 150 ñm width; elastic band of 3,5 ñm width; fusing; 4 buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Central part of front panel - 1 folded detail
2. Central part of back panel - 1 folded detail
3. Side part of front and back
panels - 2 details of 85 ñm length each
side part
widths depend on waist girth:
waist girth
of 62-67 ñm:
84 cm width,
waist girth of 68-75 ñm: 96 ñm width,
waist girth
of 76-83 ñm:
108 ñm width,
waist girth
of 84-95 ñm:
120 ñm width,
waist girth
of 96-107 ñm:
132 ñm width,
waist girth
of 108–119 ñm:
144 ñm width.
5. Waistband - 1 detail
waistband length: skirt upper edge length plus 4 cm for closure,
waistband width is 8 cm in cutting (4 ñm in ready garment).
Fusing: waistband (excluding drawcords). Drawcord length is from side
edge of front panel middle part to side edge of back panel middle part.
ATTENTION:
Press pleats on side parts of front and back panels.
The most simple is to have pleats made by professional: triple pleats, visual
pleat width is 4 cm. It means that to make a pleat of 4 cm width you need 12 cm
if material, i.e. 4 cm is pleat width (visual width) and 8 cm is pleat depth.
For first pleas from right edge of left panel you need a half of pleat depth (4
ñm) plus seam
allowance. For last pleat from left edge, mark visual pleat part of 4 cm width.
After visual part, you will need for pleat at middle part of panel half depth
of pleat plus seam allowance. Face panel hems before you have them pleated.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Tuck the hem of front and back panels.
Topstitch pleats on 19.5 cm from upper edge on the wrong side of pleated
panels. Press the fold of front panel pleat to wrong side.
Topstitch the left side of front panel middle part along the marking.
Work longitudinal buttonholes under the marking.
Pin middle parts of front and back panels with pleated panels so that to
make bend of pleat of front panel middle part coincide to marking of pleated
panel visible part.
Sew the inner bend of pleats. Leave the vent open on the front panel
middle part left side. Topstitch the outer bend of pleat on 19.5 cm from the
upper edge.
Press allowance of vent of side panel to wrong side and topstitch on 0.5
cm width. Topstitch pleat depth at vent lower end, from pleat bend, 5 cm along
seam line.
Topstitch on right side one longitudinal waistband side to skirt upper
edge and closure allowance to left side panel pleat depth. Fold waistband along
center and sew short ends. Press waistband to wrong side, fold lower edge and
pin to join seam. For drawcord, topstitch the waistband on both sides in pleat
area. Cut elastic band into 2 pieces, insert these pieces into drawcord and
topstitch to waistband at pleat and closure allowance level. Topstitch opened
waistband lower bend in joining seam. Topstitch waistband on the center of each
drawcord between cross stitches stretching elastic band. Work 1 hole on
waistband.