YOU NEED: gabardine of 150 cm
width; lining; fusing; 1 zipper of 35 cm length; 3 buttons.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Middle back part – 2
details
2.
Side
back part – 2 details
3. Middle front part – 2
details
4. Side front part (one-piece
with strap) – 2 details
5.
Piping – 1 detail
6.
Back strap – 2
folded details
Lining:
1. Middle back part – 2
details
2.
Side
back part – 2 details
3. Middle front part – 2
details
4. Side front part (one-piece
with strap) – 2 details
Fusing: details above
waistline (upper part).
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of upper part details (above waistline).
2. Sew middle seam and front
relieve. Neaten seam allowances. Press middle seam toward left part; press
relieves towards the center.
3. Sew back relieve seam
leaving closure slit. Neaten seams and press allowances towards center.
4.
Sew side seams, neaten them and press forwards.
5. Sew the zipper
with its teeth hidden.
6. Fold back straps along
bending line wrong side out and overstitch them along long edge. Turn straps
right side out, press them and tack to side back parts’ upper edges.
7. Sew narrow stripe of the
piping. Cut in into 3 pieces and form 3 loops. Tack loops to left strap end
(loop corners should be on the strap, loop ends should be on edge allowance).
8. Sew lining details in the
same ways as fabric ones. Lay lining on the dress
right sides together and sew back upper edges from zipper, as well as armhole
edges, straps outer edges and front neckline edges. Leave a slit for back
straps back ends between marks of front straps. Cut allowances at 2-3 mm from
stitch, cut diagonally at strap ends; slash neckline corner allowances
perpendicularly to seam stopping at 1 cm before stitch. Slash seam allowance
near crosswise marks. Fold the lining to wrong side,
neaten it and press. Fold the lining under and sew it to zipper braid.
9. Pin back straps upper ends
under front straps ends. Try the dress, adjust straps length and sew them to
front strap open edges (do not catch lining). Turn the lining under and sew t
above joining seam.
10. Neaten hem allowance,
press it to wrong side and sew with blind stitches. Sew lining hem so that it
was 1.5 –2 cm shorter than the dress.
11.
Sew buttons on right strap end according to loops.